Shower Won't Stop Dripping
Updated February 25, 2026
Shower head drips constantly after turning it off -- caused by a worn cartridge, failed valve seat, or a faulty diverter that does not fully close. This is typically a diy or pro fix. Estimated cost: $10 - $40 DIY; $150 - $350 with a plumber.
Overview
A shower that drips after you turn the handle to off wastes 5-10 gallons per day -- 1,800-3,600 gallons per year. The drip is inside the wall, at the shower valve. The cartridge or valve seat is not sealing fully. Unlike a faucet where the valve is easily accessible under the sink, the shower valve is behind the wall with only the trim plate and handle exposed. Accessing it means removing the handle and trim plate to reach the cartridge. The repair itself is straightforward once you are in there.
Symptoms
- Steady drip from the shower head after turning the valve fully off
- Drip rate may vary -- faster right after use, slower as pressure equalizes
- Handle turns past the off position with no resistance (worn stop)
- Drip is present from both the shower head and the tub spout simultaneously (diverter issue)
- Water temperature of the drip is warm (hot-side cartridge failing) or cold (cold-side)
Common Causes
- Worn shower cartridge -- the internal seals have degraded and no longer block water flow in the off position
- Damaged valve seat -- the brass surface the cartridge presses against is pitted or scored, preventing a clean seal
- Failed pressure-balance cartridge -- the single-handle cartridge that controls both temperature and flow has worn internally
- Diverter valve not fully closing -- on tub/shower combos, the diverter that switches between tub spout and shower head may not close completely
- Mineral buildup inside the valve body restricting the cartridge from seating fully in the off position
What You'll Need
How to Fix It
- Turn Off the Water Supply
Shower valves rarely have individual shut-offs (unlike sinks). Turn off the water at the main house shut-off or at the shut-off valves for the bathroom (if your house has zone shut-offs). Open a faucet downstairs to drain residual pressure. Verify the shower is off -- no water from the head or tub spout.
Tip: Some newer shower valves have integral stops -- small screwdriver-operated shut-offs on the valve body behind the trim plate. Check for these before turning off the main. If your valve has them, you can isolate just the shower. - Remove the Handle and Trim Plate
Single-handle: pry off the decorative cap, remove the Phillips or Allen screw, pull the handle off. Remove the trim plate (escutcheon) -- it is usually held by a screw at the bottom or screws around the perimeter, or it just pulls off with caulk holding it. Two-handle: remove both handles and the escutcheon plates. Now you can see the valve body recessed in the wall.
Tip: Take photos at each step of disassembly. Shower valve trim varies by brand and model, and reassembly in the wrong order is a common frustration. - Remove and Replace the Cartridge
Single-handle: the cartridge is the cylindrical component in the center of the valve body. Remove the retaining clip (a small horseshoe-shaped clip). Pull the cartridge straight out with cartridge pliers or a brand-specific puller. Two-handle: each handle has its own cartridge or compression stem. Remove the packing nut and pull the stem out. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store and match it. Common replacements: Moen 1222 ($20-$30), Delta RP46074 ($15-$25), Kohler GP77886 ($20-$35). Install the new cartridge in the same orientation, replace the retaining clip, and reassemble.
Tip: Moen 1222 (Posi-Temp) is the single most common shower cartridge in America. If you have a Moen single-handle shower, this is almost certainly the part. Moen ships it free under their lifetime warranty -- call 1-800-BUY-MOEN before buying. - Reassemble and Test
Replace the trim plate and handle. Turn the water supply back on slowly. Turn the shower on, let it run for 30 seconds. Turn it off. Watch the shower head for 5 minutes. No drip? The repair is complete. If it still drips, the valve seat may be damaged -- you need a seat wrench to remove and replace the seats, or the valve body itself is worn and needs replacement (a plumber job that involves opening the wall).
Tip: A slight drip for the first 30-60 seconds after turning off is normal -- residual water in the shower arm draining by gravity. A continuous drip after 2 minutes is a valve problem.
When to Call a Pro
Call a plumber if the cartridge is seized in the valve body and will not pull out (risk of damaging the valve), if replacing the cartridge does not stop the drip (valve body or seats are damaged), if you have an older valve with no available replacement cartridge (valve replacement needed -- wall must be opened), or if you are not comfortable turning off the main water supply.
Prevention Tips
- Do not crank the shower handle past the off position trying to stop a drip. Excessive force damages the valve seat and makes the problem worse.
- Hard water accelerates cartridge wear. A whole-house water softener extends the life of all valve cartridges throughout the house.
- Replace the shower cartridge proactively every 8-10 years. A $20-$30 cartridge replacement prevents the drip and extends the valve life.
- Keep the brand and model of your shower valve written down. When the cartridge fails, you can order the exact part immediately without removing the trim to identify it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the signs of a shower won't stop dripping?
Steady drip from the shower head after turning the valve fully off Drip rate may vary -- faster right after use, slower as pressure equalizes Handle turns past the off position with no resistance (worn stop) Drip is present from both the shower head and the tub spout simultaneously (diverter issue) Water temperature of the drip is warm (hot-side cartridge failing) or cold (cold-side)
What causes a shower won't stop dripping?
Worn shower cartridge -- the internal seals have degraded and no longer block water flow in the off position Damaged valve seat -- the brass surface the cartridge presses against is pitted or scored, preventing a clean seal Failed pressure-balance cartridge -- the single-handle cartridge that controls both temperature and flow has worn internally Diverter valve not fully closing -- on tub/shower combos, the diverter that switches between tub spout and shower head may not close completely Mineral buildup inside the valve body restricting the cartridge from seating fully in the off position
When should I call a plumber for a shower won't stop dripping?
Call a plumber if the cartridge is seized in the valve body and will not pull out (risk of damaging the valve), if replacing the cartridge does not stop the drip (valve body or seats are damaged), if you have an older valve with no available replacement cartridge (valve replacement needed -- wall must be opened), or if you are not comfortable turning off the main water supply.
How do I prevent a shower won't stop dripping?
Do not crank the shower handle past the off position trying to stop a drip. Excessive force damages the valve seat and makes the problem worse. Hard water accelerates cartridge wear. A whole-house water softener extends the life of all valve cartridges throughout the house. Replace the shower cartridge proactively every 8-10 years. A $20-$30 cartridge replacement prevents the drip and extends the valve life. Keep the brand and model of your shower valve written down. When the cartridge fails, you can order the exact part immediately without removing the trim to identify it.
When should I call a plumber for shower won't stop dripping?
Call a plumber if the cartridge is seized in the valve body and will not pull out (risk of damaging the valve), if replacing the cartridge does not stop the drip (valve body or seats are damaged), if you have an older valve with no available replacement cartridge (valve replacement needed -- wall must be opened), or if you are not comfortable turning off the main water supply.
Can I fix shower won't stop dripping myself?
This problem is rated "DIY or pro". Most homeowners can handle this with basic tools and patience.
How serious is shower won't stop dripping?
This is a medium-severity issue. Fix it soon to prevent it from getting worse.
How much does it cost to fix shower won't stop dripping?
The estimated repair cost is $10 - $40 DIY; $150 - $350 with a plumber. Costs vary by location, severity, and whether you hire a professional.
How can I prevent shower won't stop dripping?
Key prevention tips: Do not crank the shower handle past the off position trying to stop a drip. Excessive force damages the valve seat and makes the problem worse.. Hard water accelerates cartridge wear. A whole-house water softener extends the life of all valve cartridges throughout the house.. Replace the shower cartridge proactively every 8-10 years. A $20-$30 cartridge replacement prevents the drip and extends the valve life..