How to Replace a Shower Drain
Updated February 25, 2026
Remove and replace a corroded, clogged, or damaged shower drain cover and body -- snap-in, screw-in, and compression drain types.
Overview
The shower drain has two parts: the cover (the visible grate on the shower floor) and the drain body (the flange and pipe connection below the surface). Cover replacement is a 2-minute job -- unscrew, snap out, or pry up the old one and install the new one. Drain body replacement is more involved -- you need access from below (basement, crawlspace, or access panel) to disconnect the old drain and thread in the new one. Most homeowners only need to replace the cover. The drain body fails only if it is cracked, severely corroded, or leaking from the flange seal.
What You'll Need
Safety First
- If the shower is on the second floor, replacing the drain body requires access from the ceiling below. This may mean cutting drywall. Plan the access point before starting.
- Do not force a stuck drain cover with excessive prying. Fiberglass and acrylic shower pans crack easily around the drain opening.
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Remove the Old Drain Cover
Identify the type: screw-in covers have visible screws (Phillips or flathead) holding them to the drain body -- remove the screws and lift. Snap-in covers press-fit into the drain body -- pry up with a flathead screwdriver from the edge. Tile-in covers sit flush with the tile and may be grouted in place -- score the grout around the edge with a utility knife before prying. Some covers just lift out with no fasteners at all.
Tip: If the cover is corroded and crumbles when you try to remove it, use needle-nose pliers to pull out the pieces. The corroded cover will not come out in one piece -- accept it and remove fragments. - Clean the Drain Body
With the cover off, clean the drain body flange. Remove hair and debris from the crossbar and drain opening. Scrub mineral deposits and corrosion from the flange surface with a wire brush or vinegar-soaked rag. Check the flange for cracks -- a cracked flange leaks water under the shower pan. If the flange is intact and the drain body is not leaking, you only need a new cover. If the flange is cracked or the drain body is corroded through, replace the entire drain body.
Tip: Shine a flashlight into the drain opening and look at the drain body walls. Brown or orange discoloration is surface rust (normal on older drains). Holes, cracks, or thin spots mean the body needs replacement. - Install a New Drain Cover
Match the new cover to your drain size: most shower drains are 2-inch or 3-inch. Stainless steel covers ($8-$15) resist corrosion better than chrome-plated plastic. Snap-in: press into the drain body until it clicks. Screw-in: align the screw holes and drive the screws (use stainless steel screws -- chrome screws corrode in a shower within a year). Tile-in: set the cover in a thin bed of thinset mortar flush with the surrounding tile, then grout the perimeter.
Tip: Universal drain covers ($8-$12) fit most standard shower drains and come with multiple screw hole patterns. Bring the old cover to the hardware store to match the diameter and mounting style. - Replace the Drain Body (If Needed)
This requires access from below. Turn off water (not strictly necessary since the drain is not pressurized, but prevents splash during work). From below, disconnect the P-trap from the drain tailpiece. Use a drain removal tool ($10-$15) or large pliers inserted into the drain crossbar to unscrew the drain body counterclockwise from the shower pan. Clean the pan opening. Apply plumber's putty under the new drain flange. Thread the new drain body into the pan from above. Tighten from below with the drain tool. Reconnect the P-trap.
Tip: The drain removal tool has two prongs that fit into the crossbar holes inside the drain. It gives you the leverage to break the seal on a drain that has been in place for years. A pair of needle-nose pliers can work in a pinch but a dedicated tool ($10-$15) is much easier.
Pro Tips
- Hair catcher inserts ($3-$8) sit inside the drain opening and catch hair before it enters the P-trap. TubShroom makes a shower version that fits most 2-inch drains. Cheaper than clearing a clog and takes 2 seconds to clean.
- Stainless steel drain covers last decades in a shower environment. Chrome-plated covers corrode in 3-5 years. The $3-$5 price difference is worth it.
- If the shower floor pools water around the drain instead of flowing to it, the drain is not the problem -- the shower floor slope is insufficient. This is a construction issue, not a drain replacement fix.
- Linear drains ($100-$400) are an upgrade option for shower renovations. They sit along one wall instead of in the center of the floor. The entire floor slopes in one direction, which is easier to waterproof and tile. Installation is more complex than a center drain.
- When replacing the drain body, use a rubber gasket and compression nut connection (not plumber's putty alone) on fiberglass and acrylic pans. Putty can stain acrylic and the compression seal is more reliable on flexible pan materials.
When to Call a Pro
Call a plumber if the drain body is leaking and you do not have access from below (ceiling cut required), if the shower pan around the drain is cracked or deteriorating (pan replacement, not just drain replacement), or if the drain connects to old cast iron pipe that crumbles when disturbed.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I call a plumber to replace a shower drain?
Call a plumber if the drain body is leaking and you do not have access from below (ceiling cut required), if the shower pan around the drain is cracked or deteriorating (pan replacement, not just drain replacement), or if the drain connects to old cast iron pipe that crumbles when disturbed.
What are some expert tips to replace a shower drain?
Hair catcher inserts ($3-$8) sit inside the drain opening and catch hair before it enters the P-trap. TubShroom makes a shower version that fits most 2-inch drains. Cheaper than clearing a clog and takes 2 seconds to clean. Stainless steel drain covers last decades in a shower environment. Chrome-plated covers corrode in 3-5 years. The $3-$5 price difference is worth it. If the shower floor pools water around the drain instead of flowing to it, the drain is not the problem -- the shower floor slope is insufficient. This is a construction issue, not a drain replacement fix. Linear drains ($100-$400) are an upgrade option for shower renovations. They sit along one wall instead of in the center of the floor. The entire floor slopes in one direction, which is easier to waterproof and tile. Installation is more complex than a center drain. When replacing the drain body, use a rubber gasket and compression nut connection (not plumber's putty alone) on fiberglass and acrylic pans. Putty can stain acrylic and the compression seal is more reliable on flexible pan materials.
What tools do I need to replace a shower drain?
You will need: Drain removal tool ($10-$15) or large needle-nose pliers, Screwdriver (Phillips or flathead, for screw-in covers), Plumber's putty (for sealing the new drain flange to the shower pan), New drain cover or complete drain assembly ($8-$30), Wire brush (for cleaning the drain body flange).
When should I call a professional instead of doing this myself?
Call a plumber if the drain body is leaking and you do not have access from below (ceiling cut required), if the shower pan around the drain is cracked or deteriorating (pan replacement, not just drain replacement), or if the drain connects to old cast iron pipe that crumbles when disturbed.
How difficult is this project?
This project is rated easy. Most homeowners with basic tools can complete it.
How long does this take?
Plan for approximately 15 - 45 minutes. First-timers may need extra time.
How much will this cost?
The estimated cost is $8 - $30. Costs vary by location and materials chosen.